Hey Ed, been at the lake with no internet access. Finally took a break today and went to Starbucks. Things have been going well. Still running the old style
D2. just replaced all the petals on the front cylinder. To dang hot here, water is 87. Numbers are down quite a bit missing almost 200RPMs on the top, and have
a really bad bog. This morning pulled the carbs and changed the springs, so latter today should be able to see if that helped the low ends.
Bright side, I found a better source of springs for the pipes, put 10 hours on her this week and haven't broken one yet =)
Got them at a dirt bike store locally. They are alittle shorter then the Coffman ones, so it takes alittle bit more grunt to get them on. Also you have to
reshape the hook on the manifold side. I did the first one by hand, then used a metal rod and a vise to reshape the others. Need to make them alittle more
rounded like the coffmans. Best part. I got a pack of 10 for $20
Lake has been great! Put almost 10 hours on her and she came home under her own power each time. =)
Oh another funny part. I am definately leaking water somewhere. Kinda been the theme around here this year. Haven't found where its coming from yet, but
I'm getting a good 2-3" every half hour or so...
Pressure test your #1 pipe. I bet you have a split in a weld. If its leaking you cant see it. I got a bad leak now but its obviouse, it has a chaffed spot in
one of my water supply lines.
Yea thats what I'm thinking too, It seems to be leaking up by the front cylinder. Whats the story with yours? Was it fixable? Was it big enough to be
visible?
I got it welded up at the same machine shop that decked the cylinders on my 00. The split was 4-5" and you could see it plainly after the pipe was out.
Your setup would be easy to check the whole motor and exhaust. Cap off your water exits from the pipe then split your supply linke at the T for your stingers
and pressurize the whole thing. Thats the easy way to find a pesky leak, 20 psi will do the job.
Well I think the pipes are ok. Pulled the top pipe today to do some routing maintenance, and found the clamp on the water log had cut the hose. Fixed it and
was pretty dry this afternoon. Still going to pressurize the cooling system when I get home, want to double check. The center cylinder had a little moisture on
it, and I have gotten into the habit of flushing the lines without the engine running, better safe then sorry.
In the heat (95air 88water) the highspeed tune is decent, lost 100-200 RPMs from beginning of summer, however the lows suck, won't idle worth anything, and
doesn't want to restart. Figured the lowspeeds would be more forgiving then the highs.
The first one (Cyl1) went at 45hrs, this one (Cyl3) went at 61hrs. Both were the middle peddles. I didn't have a spare with me this time (I replaced all 4
the first time) so I just put in one of the used ones from Cyl1. Really not that bad on hours I know many (you included) haven't seen that duration out of
them. But I'm not turning the RPMs you are, and I have spacers too. I am really convinced it is the revs. The "lady friend" was with me this
weekend, so I was doing some turns/jumps with her. Spent quite a bit of time smacking the rev-limiter.
The limiter is currently set at 7800, I don't see those speeds hooked up, but with the Advent, hitting the limiter on a small bump will really slow you
down. Takes a good half a second to get power back.
Ed, the max I consistently have seen is 7550-7600 with perfect conditions. (I'd have to look, but last year in the fall I think I hit a few clicks above
7600) Normal everyday is 7450-7500. Limited at 7800. With the heat currently, I am lucky to hit 7400.
I need to see if I should just bight the bullet and get the V3 or inquire about the redesigned cages for the D2. Honestly If I can get about 50 hours a pedal,
I'd be fine with that. I just don't want this to be a every other weekend event. If the "lady friend" comes again it would be my luck
that's when I'd lose one. I don't think watching me change a reed for 2 hours would hold her interest.... I did however change the rear one today
with all the pipes in. I got a cheap curved 13mm wrench from Harbor Freight bent it alittle more and it works perfect for getting the rear carb bolts off.
Before I always had to loosen the 2nd pipe and tilt it up to fit the wrench in. However my left hand looks like I got into a fight with a cat or something.
I think the revs have alot to do with it. I have the rev limiter set at 8400 and have seen the tach show that and more if I bounced out of the water, I
consistently see 7800 with the 17/21. I have tried to be much more aware of comming unhooked and letting up a little.
7800 with a 17/21. Thats awesome! Do you have any solid numbers on what the RPM difference was between the 16/20 and 17/21? Did you have to change the
clearance, or is the pump setup pretty similar as before?
I havent tried back to back with the 16/20. Keep in mind too that my 16/20 was repitched to 17/20 by impros. All I did was change the props clearance was dead
on .006 . The repitched stock from steve turns about 7500, best I can tell it is 1.5 - 2 mph slower on top with a very strong middle. The 17/21 will normaly
pull 74 on a full tank the mod stock did like 72.5 on the same fuel load. I need to go back and put the 17/20 in my spare pump so I can test the 2 together. I
have another extended nozel comming so I can set it up for quick changes at the ramp.
Well talked to Moto Tassinari yesterday, about the V3 design, and honestly for the price to upgrade I could buy lots of peddles for my D2.
They are currently out of stock of the redesigned Kawasaki D2 cages and with the wait list wouldn't be able to get me some until Late August. But as soon
as they are available they will send me 3 for FREE as long as I ship them my original 3 for a core reimbursement. I also ordered 2 more replacement peddle
sets, to replace the remaining 2 cylinders. They also said if there is any signs of stress/cracking when the redesigned cages come, they will replace all the
pedals, no questions asked.
So I have to give them props for this, very nice to deal with, and I couldn't be happier with the out come. They were willing to send me free cages,
instead of forcing me to buy there "new" product.
Swapped out all the reeds today. Took some good pictures, but photobucket seems to be messed up. I'll try to upload them later. Also started what I thought
would be a small quick project, but turned into more. Everyone says I have my carbs on backwards. (and I'm not arguing) Was doing fine, but lately I have
been having a pretty good hesitation off the line that I can't get rid off. Was fine before, but I think the heat has exposed it more.
Would have been easy, if the fuel lines would reach, oil lines would clear the throttle linkage/reach to the otherside. Throttle cable bracket clear the pipes.
So all in all its 1:30 got about 6 hours of wrenching time done today, and still got a few things to finish up. Hopefully its not all invane. (I'll post
some process pics tomorrow)
Word to the wise, if you are installing A/M carbs, don't fit the fuel lines perfectly, you never know when you will need longer lines. I took the
"neat and clean" approach and cut each line to the exact size I needed...and now I have new fuel lines.
When I did mine I left them 6-8" longer than I thought they needed to be then trimmed them to lenght. I did leave a little extra so I could unbolt the
carbs and rotate them for rejetting.
Did you turn them 90deg so the throttle shafts are parallel with the crank or 180 so the needles are forced open under acceleration? Im also interested in what
you had to do with the throttle cable.